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HANDLING
Hardwood is a living substance which reacts to changes in relative humidity.
Wood gains and loses moisture before and after installation, as surrounding
conditions fluctuate. Indeed, wood expands in the summer when humidity level
is high and contracts in the winter when the humidity level is much lower.
To minimize the expansion or contraction of your hardwood floor, it is
recommended that the building should be well ventilated and the relative
humidity level maintained at 45% all year long. Before you begin, plastering
and cement work must be completely dry. It is strongly recommended that the
wood be left to acclimatize at house temperature for a period of at least
24 hours at the ideal relative humidity level which is 45%.
TEST CONCRETE SLABS FOR EXCESS MOISTURE
Rubber Mat Method (Useful Only On Light-Colored Concrete)
Lay a flat, non-corrugated rubber mat on the slab. Place a weight on top
to prevent moisture from escaping and allow the mat to remain 24 hours; if
the covered area shows dark, wet marks, too much moisture is present.
Polyethylene film method
Tape a 12" (30cm) square of clear polyethylene film to the slab with plastic
moisture-resistant tape, sealing all four edges. If no condensation collects
under the film after 24 hours, the slab is dry enough for floor installation.
Make tests in several areas of each room. When test indicates excess moisture,
wait for the slab to dry naturally or accelerate drying with heat and
ventilation, then test again before installing floors.
INSTALLATION METHODS ON SLABS
Plywood on slab
Begin by covering the slab with a vapor retarder of either asphalt felt,
building paper or polyethylene:
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Asphalt felt or building paper - First, prime the slab and apply
cold, cut-back asphalt mastic with a notched trowel at the rate of 50 sq.
ft. per gallon (l m2 per liter). Allow to set for two
hours. Unroll 15 lb (6.8 kg) asphalt felt or building paper,
lapping the edges 4" (10 cm) and butting the ends. Over this,
apply a second similar coating of mastic and roll out a second layer of
asphalt felt or paper in the same direction as the first, staggering the
overlaps to achieve an even thickness.
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Polyethylene - When the slab is well above grade and the expected
annual rainfall is light to moderate, cover the entire slab with 4-6 mil
polyethylene film, overlapping the edges 4-6" (10 to 15 cm), and
allowing enough film to extend under the baseboard on all sides. When
moisture conditions are more severe, prime the slab and apply cold, cut-back
mastic with a straightedge or fine-tooth trowel (100 sq.ft. per gallon)
(2 m2 per liter). Allow to dry for at least 90 minutes.
Unroll 4-6 mil polyethylene film over the slab, overlapping the edges
4-6" (10-15 cm).
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In either cases, roll the film flat or "walk" it in, stepping on every square
centimeter to insure proper adhesion. Puncture bubbles to release trapped
air.
 Install the
plywood after the vapor barrier is in place. Loosely lay a nailing surface
of 3/4" x 4" x 8" (19mm x 1.22m x 2.44m) exterior plywood panels over the
entire area, leaving a 3/4" (19mm) space at the wall line and 1/4"-1/2" (6-12mm)
between panels. Cut plywood to fit within 1/8" (3mm) near doorjambs and other
obstructions where finish trim will not be used. Lay plywood diagonally across
the direction of the finished floor to help prevent cracks along panel edges.
Fasten plywood to the slab with power-actuated fasteners, securing the
center of the panel first, the edges, using nine or more nails. Do not use
power-actuated fasteners or concrete nails when radiant heat pipes are
imbedded in the slab. Instead, cut the ply- wood into 4' x 4' (1.22m by
1.22m) squares, score the backs 5/8" (16 mm) deep on a 12" x
12" (30cm x 30cm) grid, and lay the panel in cut-back mastic applied
with a 1/4" x 1/4" (6mm x 6mm) notched trowel. (35 sq.ft. per
gallon) (0.7 m2 per liter).
Screeds System (sleepers)
 Flat, dry,
preservative-treated 2" x 4" (5cm x 10cm) screeds in random
lengths from 18" to 48" (0.5-1.2 m) can also serve as a
subfloor. Begin by sweeping the slab clean, applying an asphalt primer and
allow to dry. Apply hot (poured) or cold (cut-back) asphalt mastic and imbed
the screeds. Stagger joints and lap ends at least 4" (10cm) and leave a
1/2" (12mm) space between lapped edges. Be sure there is enough mastic
for 100% contact between screeds and slab. Leave a space of 3/4" (19mm)
between ends of screeds and walls with a continuous run of screeds at end
walls. Before installing the floor, loosely lay an additional vapor retarder
of 4-6 mil polyethylene film over the screeds, overlapping the edges on top
of the 2 x 4s. Avoid bunching or puncturing the film, especially between the
screeds. Nail the finished flooring to the screeds through the film.
PREPARATION
For new construction or renovations:
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Be sure to maintain occupancy-level temperature and humidity for at least
five days. The house must be heated at 22º.
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Using a hygrometer, verify the subfloor (plywood) humidity level; it must
not exceed 12%. If the humidity level is too high, turn up the heat and open
the basement windows 1/2" (1.25 cm).
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Remove baseboards and door sills.
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Screw the subfloor securely and if necessary, install a double layer of 15 lb
(6kg) or a single layer of 30 lb (14kg) asphalt felt or building
paper.
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Using a handsaw, slit the bottom of the door-frames 3/4" (2cm) in order to
slide a hardwood plank beneath the door.
TOOLS AND MATERIAL REQUIRED
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Hardwood floor nailer (with rubber mallet)
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Electric drill and bits
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Tenon-saw, circular saw or handsaw
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Claw hammer and nail punch
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Measuring tape
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Chalk line
STEP BY STEP INSTALLATION
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Using the chalk line, draw a line parallel to 3/4" (19 mm) larger than the
planks width. Never nail closer than 3" (75 mm) towards the end of the plank.
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Select the planks, then lay them out on the floor in the general pattern
in which they will be installed. The straightest planks should be used for
the first and second rows.
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Always select your planks with care. Those with flaws must be recut.
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Lay the tongue edge of the plank on the guideline, leaving a 3/4" (19mm)
space between the groove edge and the starting wall. This expansion space
will allow the wood to expand if necessary.
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The first row must be secured to the floor using screw shank flooring nails.
Drill holes on the surface of the planks at 1" (2.5cm) from the edge
approximately 12" (30cm) apart. Next, secure using a claw hammer and punch.
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Measure and cut a plank the required length to finish the first row. As the
remaining section will be used to start the second row, the plank selected
for the first row must be long enough to yield a remaining section of adequate
length. Leave a 3/4" (19mm) space between the wall and the plank in each
row.
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Start the second row with a plank of at least 6" (15cm) shorter or
longer than the plank used in the first row; this will avoid aligning the
joints. Set the plank in place, drill a hole on the tongue edge at a 45º
angle, then nail at every 8" (20cm) or 10" (25cm).
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The subsequent rows must be installed in the same manner, but using a hardwood
floor nailer. Try a few hammering tests on a piece of scrap wood to determine
the pressure needed to properly drive nail.
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For best appearance, leave enough distance between the joints by alternating
with planks of different lengths to avoid aligning joints.
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The last four or five rows must be installed in the same manner as the first
two rows. The use of the hardwood floor nailer is impossible since the last
rows are too close to the wall.
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Conceal the nail holes using a special wax.
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Finish trim is nailed only to the wall and never on the planks.
MAINTENANCE & PREVENTION TIPS
Although your prefinished hardwood floor offers high durability and easy
maintenance, it is not indestructible. In order to maintain and preserve
the beauty of your floor, the following are tips which should save you time
and worry:
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Regularly sweep or vacuum the floor to prevent sand or abrasive dust from
accumulating and scratching the finish.
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Use manufacturers specialized maintenance products for safe, quick and easy
maintenance of your hardwood flooring.
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Place doormats outside and rugs inside at every entrance to prevent sand
or abrasive dust from accumulating.
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Place a rug in front of the dishwasher and the kitchen sink to protect the
floor from water, oily detergent spills and fallen objects.
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Use protectors under all narrow casters or replace them with wider rubber
casters. Avoid plastic casters.
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Protect the floor when moving heavy pieces of furniture. Carry them or place
them on a rug, wrong side up, and slide the rug. Refrigerators should never
be moved without adequate floor protection.
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The relative humidity level in your home must be maintained at 45% (40-50
~ throughout the year. Problems related to humidity level variation can be
minimized by proper ventilation, dehumidifying or heating.
THINGS TO AVOID
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Do not pour any floor cleaner directly on floor.
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Never allow any liquid to remain on floor.
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Avoid dripping mops which leave excess water on floor. Some manufacturers
recommend cleaning hardwood floors with a mop rinsed in a water and vinegar
solution. This is acceptable so long as the mop is squeezed dry beforehand.
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Never use wax, oil-based detergent or any household cleaners. These may dull
or damage the finish, leaving a greasy film, making the floor slippery and
more difficult to clean.
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